Cam: Greetings from Rajasthan
Jullay and Namaste, both in the same day!
We have really entered the final stage of our semester as we have left Ladakh and are now in the sweltering state of Rajasthan!
As we expected, the Markha valley trek proved to be an unparalleled experience for the group. The extra bonding time, the wonderful food, the opportunities to reflect during the days, passing through remote villages, the terrain testing our stamina, the stars, the altitude, the laughter. In all aspects the trek was meaningful, demanding, and truly a culminating experience for our time in Ladakh! Everyone performed exceptionally and eventually we all learned the basics of backcountry travel - risk management in a group setting, packing a daypack to be prepared for all weather conditions, Leave No Trace philosophy, high altitude travel and health, and the importance of communication while hiking with a party of 14 people!
After our tremendous day crossing the Kongmarula pass in a snowstorm, everyone's spirits had peaked and there was an enormous sense of accomplishment in each student's smile. It was a wonderful blue sky day when we returned to Leh. We stopped by Hemis Monastery on our way back, soaking up our last glimpses of this deeply rooted Buddhist culture in the northwestern Himalaya. This monastery is one of the largest and richest in Ladakh, with many prayer rooms and gathering halls for the monks to complete their daily rituals. It was a wonderful way to re-enter civilization and Ladakhi culture, to really remember that we are still in this mystical landscape and culture of Ladakh (when you are surrounded by only mountains for so long, you sometimes forget!). Namgial presented the history of both the monastery and the Drugpa Kagyu sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This gompa visit really allowed us to summarize our time spent exploring this school of thought over the last two months and helped us realize how much we have all learned!
With two full days in Leh before our flight to Delhi, the students went to visit their homestay families in Phey for one last night. The students returned to this village with a different perspective than before. After all of the experiences, lectures, discussions, and travel that had taken place since their previous days in Phey, the students had undoubtedly gained a different, wiser view of Ladakh and its cultural traditions. This second exposure to village life sparked deeper insights to take place, specifically around the complex social and religious structure that dictates daily life in their families and Phey in general.
The next morning the return trip to Leh was not as easy as expected! Sarah, Erin, and I designed a little photo-scavenger hunt involving important sites and places surrounding Leh. Before returning to the guesthouse, the students were asked to complete certain tasks around Leh and document the experience with photos - such as visiting Sankar Gompa, Shanti Stupa, the vegetable market, a school, etc. The group excelled as usual and completed the objectives before noon, coming back to Dorje Guesthouse with wide smiles and hilarious photos.
After a free afternoon of shopping and exploring downtown Leh, we gathered at sunset to debrief our time in Ladakh and share "what we had learned" the past month. It was a very special time for the students and especially for Sarah and I, as we have spent most of the last year in Ladakh and feel very connected to the Ladakhi people and culture. The profound reflections and insights that the students shared with the group all made us take a step back and truly realize what a unique society we were lucky enough to have participated in the last month. As a group we had questioned so much and learned a great deal about this place, about our own culture, and about ourselves. Over the month we were forced to redefine our understanding of development, modernization, prosperity, happiness, community, and social relationships - all difficult questions and concepts that we were trying to grasp as individuals, as a group of students, and as Americans!
The students all commented on their expectations of Ladakh versus their actual experiences here. Katie was surprised by the abundance of imported laborers from Nepal and central India, many students were humbled by the long distances villagers had to travel to their fields or the children had to travel to school each day, Lauren was surprised by how everyone depends on each other and how each family harmoniously works together in all aspects of daily life, Momo was surprised by the combination of Western and Indian influences that are impacting traditional Ladakhi culture, Frank was surprised by the lack of religious freedom within Buddhist families, Caitlin was amazed that telephones were not an essential part of daily life, and Melissa appreciated the vast cultural differences between Ladakh, northern, and southern India. On a larger scale, the entire group felt that they had really become 'close' since their arrival in Ladakh, which everyone was happy about! Although the discussion lasted only an hour, by sharing our experiences and reflections we all came to a greater understanding of why we had journeyed to Ladakh in the first place and what incredible life lessons we were leaving with.
Our final dinner of momos in Leh was meant to be a goodbye dinner to our good friend Namgial, but it turned out to be much more. After we all shared memories of Namgial and thanked him for his enthusiasm, knowledge, and friendship, the discussion turned towards future PVI groups in Ladakh and the possibility of this group collaborating in some way to 'give back' to Ladakh, or India. The students were dismayed with the idea of returning home to our daily lives and forgetting about this experience, the group, and most importantly, the people we have encountered during our semester. There were many ideas thrown out about how we could practically work together after our return to the US, with everyone acknowledging how busy our lives will be and how easy it is to loose contact and motivation. The idea of a website was agreed upon for everyone to stay in touch and keep formulating ideas and initiatives. There is much more talking to do in these last days to finalize things, but keep your eyes out for this ambitious group of students!
The next morning we departed Leh on an early flight for Delhi. Everyone had reservations about leaving, but many were optimistic that they would return someday in the future to continue tackling these often overwhelming issues of cultural preservation and modernization. Delhi welcomed us with heat so great that when the wind was blowing on your face it felt like a hairdryer! The train to Rajasthan was a colorful re-entry to chaotic India and as a group we were drained upon arrival. Too many miles covered and too many sights for just one day!
We have a couple of relaxing days in Rajasthan to shop, sightsee, and complete some final discussions about our time in India and our expectations for when we return home. It will be so sad for me to leave this group of students. We have all learned so much from each other and shared so many experiences this semester that I fear separation. We will write more on our activities these last few days, and I cannot believe it is just four more until we arrive home!
Namaskar all,
Cam